After more stops in the El Born neighbourhood, the tour winds toward Barceloneta for vermouth and bombas (meat-and-potato croquettes) at Bodega La Peninsular and squid ink-stained paella at Can Ramonet. On a morning stroll on the Tastes & Traditions of Barcelona tour, visitors skip the hordes at Mercat de la Boqueria in favour of a more civilised breakfast of charcuterie, cheeses and cava at Bar Joan at Mercado de Santa Caterina. More than mere culinary tours, Devour Barcelona’s small-group sojourns dive into the history and culture of the city – and steer travellers towards lesser-known local haunts. At €25 the 10-course tasting menu is a bargain and worth booking if you have another night in the city. Even the pudding, based on traditional egg custard, has a hint of sardine. Try samples of horse mackerel bone broth and smoked sashimi of yellow fin tuna. Here chef-owner Filipe Rodrigues combines his love of Japanese techniques, Portuguese produce and a passion for sustainability to create inventive dishes. Then there’s a shot of cherry liqueur at a local corner store and a takeaway grilled chicken eaten in the no-nonsense bar of a neighbourhood association – another fast-disappearing feature of old Lisbon.Ī contrast to these insights into old Lisbon is tiny A Taberna do Mar, which opened in 2018 opposite the church and convent of Graça. After breathing in the scent of coffee and roasted spices at Negrita, the tour takes in a traditional cerveceria for plates of clams, velvet crab and prego (steak sandwich). Graça and neighbouring Mouraria are still home to families who shop in local stores, making the two neighbourhoods ideal for Culinary Backstreets: its food tours aim to give visitors an insight into the city’s history and culture. One of only two roasteries left in Lisbon, Negrita is in a former stables in the Graça neighbourhood and has survived because the family own the building: elsewhere across the city rising rents are forcing decades-old businesses to close. So says 93-year-old Carlos Pina, whose father founded coffee roastery Negrita in 1924 and who still works there. Tours from €59pp, tours last 3-3½ hours, Ī single espresso first thing on an empty stomach is the secret to a long and healthy life. Taste Porto runs a Vintage Tour option that includes a final stop at boutique wine store, Touriga, where the owner David will willingly pair your palate to the perfect port. Everywhere you go (whether it’s the Loja dos Pastéis de Chaves cafe with its flaky pastries or the Flor de Congregados sandwich bar with its sublime slow-roasted pork special) the experience is as convivial as it is culinary. Walking the city with one of the six guides feels less like venue-hopping and more like dropping in for a catch-up with a series of food-loving, old friends. ![]() “We like to show who’s doing the cooking, who’s serving the food, who’s supplying the ingredients, and so on.” ![]() “Food is an expression of culture,” says US-born Carly Petracco, who founded Taste Porto in 2013 with her Porto-born husband Miguel and his childhood buddy André. Second, it’s as much about the people behind the food, as the food itself. First, Portuenses like to keep things simple: so, no fusion experiments. Taste Porto’s tours are rooted in fundamental beliefs about the gastronomic scene in Portugal’s second city.
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